All posts by CoffeeNerd

3rd Wave Coffee – Taking Light Roast Way Too Far

After attending the New York Coffee Festival yesterday I had what I will call a revelation.  The so-called 3rd Wave Coffee singular characteristic is really light roasts…that’s not the revelation.  The theory is that you are better highlighting the varietal of the bean by applying less roast character.  That’s great in theory, but even the best Ethiopian Yirgacheffe will taste like shit if it’s under-roasted.

So, is this 3rd wave movement going too far?  I think so.  You would think that 2nd crack is a criminal offense the way these people are acting.  Now, don’t get me wrong, the way Starbucks treats 2nd crack is criminal and results in bitter nasty crap.  But, some beans just simply work better at darker roasts, and ALL beans need to reach a proper roast state to taste good.  But, so many people these days seem to be completely afraid of even a medium roast.  And, at the festival, I tasted several under-roasted examples from people that were really proud of what they had done.

So, why the fad?  Who started this, and why is it persisting?  And what exactly does “medium” roast mean anyway?  Making coffee is part art and part science.  And as with all endeavors, constant improvement is what makes it worth pursuing in the first place.  But, it seems like we are in a massive over-reaction to Starbucks now.  People have forgotten the goodness that lays in between the extremes.    Let’s take a look at the Starbucks spectrum:

Starbucks Roast Spectrum
Starbucks Roast Spectrum

It should be totally obvious the beans on the right are flat out burnt.  Now, let’s look at these three basic roasts as the SCAA defines them:

SCAA Roast Spectrum
SCAA Roast Spectrum

It’s not perfect apples to apples, because the SCAA samples are ground, but it’s close enough to make the point.  What SCAA calls “moderately dark” is what Starbucks is calling “Blonde”.  WTF?!  How is that even remotely possible?  The answer is simple.
There really is no standard.  The SCAA putting Agtron numbers for color in a book, doesn’t really mean shit.  Do you see “blonde” on the SCAA chart?  And, isn’t “blonde” really like super light yellow (think hair)?  Roasters can call their roasts whatever they want.  If it’s the darkest they are willing to go, then it’s “Dark Roast”.  And, it seems that Hipsters have single handedly taken this whole light roast thing off the deep end (or is that the shallow end?) in the name of “promoting complete bean development.”

What is the result?  Majorly acidic coffee that isn’t really enjoyable.  Really, all you’ve done is created the polar opposite of Starbucks.  But, as is often the case, the extremes, at both ends of the spectrum, are not good.   Brewing a good cup of coffee really hasn’t changed in, well, forever.  Yet, people still actively seek out ways to screw it up, and then charge $5 a cup for it.

So, I issue a challenge to all the Hipster roasters out there.  Roast a batch so dark it makes you uncomfortable and let people try it.  If you really are a good roaster, you wont have to worry about even coming close to a Starbucks “dark” roast, and I’ll bet the taste will surprise you.

New York Coffee Festival

I was really looking forward to the New York Coffee Festival ever since I saw an alert for it in my Google news feed.  I was not disappointed.   The coffee samples were plentiful, and representation was there from giants in the industry to the small folks just starting out.  It was great to see even footing for all, and New York has one hell of a coffee scene going on right now.  Yes, Starbucks had the largest display in the event, but their display was not even close to the most visited.

The barrista challenges were quite fun to watch, although I wish the announcers would have talked less, and the barrista mics were on more.  I could see them talking to the judges and wanted to hear what they were saying.

A highlight for me was the La Marzocco booth.  They had a bar where different roasters took turns showcasing their signature coffees.  But the real fun was the demos of the new Linea Mini machine.  This is a “home” machine, but really it’s just a scaled down version of their signature cafe machine…it’s even NSF rated.  But, what good is a home machine if you can’t try it?  So, they had 3 machines out there and let anyone interested pull shots and steam some milk.  The machine really is quite amazing, but the price tag is pretty steep at $4495 (given the price of a GS3, this is a steal).  It’s not as programmable as the full commercial version, but it’s more than up to the task.  It was a blast playing with it.

This was the first time the event has been held in the US after several turns in London and Amsterdam.  I have to believe this will be back next year, and if so, you should go.  You don’t have to be in the industry to have fun.  You just need to be a fan of coffee.

Preground Coffee in Starbucks!

The only drink in Starbucks that isn’t just downright awful is a Blonde Roast pour over.  But, guess what?  They pre-grind the coffee and store it in a little container.  So, yep, when you ask for a Blonde pour over, you are getting stale crap.  That’s just really pathetic.  They fresh grind all the espresso based drinks, but they screw those beans up in the roaster.  The one chance they have left to redeem themselves, and they screw that up too.  At least all those iced teas I got (unsweetened) got me a free food item.

A perfect shot of espresso

A perfect shot of espresso
A perfect shot

A perfect shot of espresso with my “Trunch” blend.  This blend is Brazil, Mexico, Sumatra and Costa Rica, and it is exactly what I want in a shot.  There’s abundant bittersweet chocolate and roasty nuttiness, and the Costa Rica gives it a nice little kick at the end.

The roast profile is a Diedrich style slow start/fast finish with 1st crack hitting at about 11min, and roast finishing just at the start of 2nd crack at about 14min.

Yes, you can do this at home too.  Screw Starbucks.

AeroClover – Clover Style Brewing with the AeroPress

So, you like the result of a Clover brewed cup, but you don’t want to spend $6000 on a machine?  Oh yeah, Starbucks bought Clover and you can’t buy one anyway.  Well, you are in luck because you can replicate the process with a sub $30 device.

Chances are you have an AeroPress, or at least have heard of it.  It’s probably the cheapest coffee brewing device out there and it makes a seriously good cup of coffee.  If you don’t have you really can’t loose much by picking one up.  There’s many different ways to use the AeroPress.  The “inverted” method is quite the rage right now.  I happen to use the inverted method because it makes less of a mess.  According to the latest stats on the World Aeropress Championships, about 50% of the people use the device the way it was intended…so you can make a great cup either way.

But, there’s another way you can use the AeroPress, and it simulates the Clover style brewing method.  So, if you are willing to possibly make a mess, watch this.

FreshRoast SR700 and Roastero

When I started home roasting with the FreshRoast SR700, it was for two reasons.  First, I realized that even though I had started to buy really great beans from local roasters, it was expensive.  I looked, and a pound of very good green coffee is about $5, and a pound of good roasted is anywhere from $15 to $20.  So, by roasting myself, I save big bucks.  Second, I am able to get exactly the coffee I want when I want it.  I roast on demand, and never have any wasted coffee.

So, I decided on the FreshRoast SR700.   It’s computer controlled, and that’s too geeky to pass up.  But, a friend had an SR500 and recommended that.  So, after some research, it really did look like a great way to start at home.

Now, enter Roastero.  After I started roasting, I joined the FreshRoast Facebook group.  There’s over 100 people there comparing recipes and sharing advice on the FreshRoast SR700 and SR500.  Then, I see a post from 2 college kids that are writing an open source program to control the SR700.  You better believe I jumped on that invite.

The stock SR700 software lets you save lots of steps, but you still only have control over 3 heat levels, and 9 fan speeds.  It’s pretty flexible, and produces fine roasts, but it’s still sort of limiting.  Roastero on the other hand uses temperature targets for each step.  You can actually build a real roast profile.  This software takes a really good machine and makes it a great machine.  The roasts you can do with this level of control are incredible.  The only nit is that the software is still using those 3 heat levels, so it toggles back and forth between them to maintain a given temperature.  That is a limitation of the hardware.  So, the resulting curve is not smooth.  But, the average of the result works out fine.

I am able to create profiles that put 1st crack anywhere I want it.  I can produce nice even light roasts, or dark roasts with a roaring 2nd crack, and they are all nice and even.

Here’s a quick video.

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Not an Espresso Fan?

I know, some people don’t like espresso? What’s up with that?!  Well, what are you supposed to do if someone is visiting and want’s coffee but just wants “a cup of coffee”.  I humbly suggest Guatemala Volcan at Full City roast.

I roasted this batch with my Fresh Roast SR700 at 2min past 1st Crack.  This is one of, if not the best, “cup of coffee” I’ve ever had.  I brewed it in an Aeropress at 185F.  It was spectacular.

Guatemala Volcan
Guatemala Volcan 2min after 1st Crack

Home Roast Sumatra

Sumatra Iskandar won some awards this year.  So I picked up a few pounds to home roast.

Roasted with FreshRoast SR700 to Full City+
Roasted with FreshRoast SR700 to Full City+

This batch was roasted 20 sec into a rolling second crack.  It came out excellent.  Brewed as a single origin espresso, it had all the body you would expect.  It was thick and syrupy, with mild sweetness and a touch of acidic tang to wake up the mouth.  I regularly use 25% Sumatra in my “go-to” espresso blend, and this bean again showed me why I do it.

As an Aeropress brew, this was also outstanding.  The cup was exceptionally smooth and not bitter at all.  The sweetness was perhaps more pronounced than in the espresso preparation and the aroma had chocolate notes to it.  The thickness of the body noted in the espresso preparation was also very noticeable.

#starbuckssucks